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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    630pm Robin sleeping in his thermals only me in my thermals down suit AND sleeping bag did I mention I am the coldest Canadian alive It started snowing early afternoon and kept on snowing throughout the night at Camp 2 snow at camp 2 We only have two small tents at camp two but some of the larger groups actually have a dining tent a cooking tent and a toilet tent as well as their individual tents pretty luxurious Sherpas crrosing ladder The following morning we woke up to about two feet of fresh snow around us It was windy and camp 3 could barely be seen through the snow blowing off the Lhotse face We waited for a while to see if the weather would clear up and eventually attempted to make our way to camp 3 in two feet of fresh snow It was tiring making our own way in the snow but after a while it was clear the conditions were not improving and we decided to turn around We also radioed base camp and we were told about an impending storm in the next 48 hours so it was safer to make our way back to base camp than to stay overnight at camp 2 In the end all teams headed back down from camp two to base camp to wait for the storm to pass Snow in our Tent We made it back down to EBC by mid afternoon and much faster than our previous descent Already with the snow melting the icefalls are changing having noticed the crevasses getting wider and hence having more ladders to cross and having to be that much more careful as every day goes by eating an apple at Camp 1 In the meantime at base camp Jenny has

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/22.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    groups might spend between 5 to 7 nights at camp 2 while others spend only 2 nights like us It is easy to become confused and question everyone s logic but at the end of the day you have to trust your team leader and that he has your best interest and his at heart and is making the best decision for you and your team members Again a team of two like Robin and I is a lot easier to manage and we have a lot more flexibility than say a team of 26 climbers International Mountain Guides So we have spent the last few days resting but have also been a little busy relatively speaking of course There was a group of Swedish trekkers that stayed with us with night some of them here to make a documentary on one of Everest s many cleaning expeditions this year Base camp can also be a fairly social place with many climbers walking around and popping into each other s dining tent for a chat and afternoon tea we are getting pretty good at knowing what time each dining tent has their afternoon snack and who has the better snacks

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/21.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    be leaving very early morning on the 25th to make our way to camp 2 and then camp 3 In the meantime it s a matter of making time pass here at EBC We are trying to stay as healthy as possible and so far we are not sick as opposed to the larger groups But living in these conditions at 17500 feet wears your body down physically and mentally no matter what Physically you always feel this kind of fatigue and inertia and feel like your muscles are slowly wasting away You get weaker with time not stronger It is best to try to do some kind of activity every day You still feel short of breath walking around even after all this time here You are often congested and we all have a dry cough But all very mild and manageable just part of being here And mentally you have to stay focus on why you are here and try to keep busy on the days not climbing We keep busy by reading books playing cards watching movies on my dvd player and socializing with the other climbers There are a few chores that need to be done every day that you decide to spread over a few days If you do a little bit of laundry one day well you will certainly NOT take a shower that very same day no no no that s for a whole other day We are all starting to look like mountain goats anyway Soon I won t need hair elastic to hold my hair up and soon I will be putting little Jamaican beads in Robin s beard Robin has already mentioned that he would like to get his ear and nose hairs burnt off at this special little place

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/20.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    other tent Christine at Ice fall After a hearty lunch noodle soup salami cookies chips cinnamon buns cold toast hot tang eggs milk tea ugh our stomachs lol we basically spent the afternoon in our tents trying to rest but very distracted by the high winds and occasionally having to hold on to the sides of the tent Going out for a pee was an epic adventure because of the weather the winds and the risk of hidden crevasses As the evening went on we both noticed that the pee radius just seemed to get closer and closer to the tent Robin went on and on about world records for peeing distance but I think I have talked enough about that subject It was a cold night and windy night at camp 1 but being exhausted from our long day we were all sound asleep by 7pm Camp 1 to camp 2 6400m We woke up in the morning to still very strong winds and we were unsure if it would be safe to make it up to camp 2 We waited in our tents to see if the winds would subside once the sun came up We also had to wait for Kame and Ringe who were making their way back to camp one from base camp with even more gear for camp 2 The winds did seem to die down a little and we left for camp 2 our sherpas with packs weighing up to 60 kg and Robin and I carrying our own personal gear sleeping bag sleeping pads personal gear about 12kg We left one tent up at camp 1 in case of emergency in the future The way to camp 2 is not as steep but you must zigzag your way there to avoid all the crevasses They can be very deceiving an opening to a crevasse can be only a few inches but can open up to be 50 meter deep and a few meters wide imagine a A shaped crevasse Some of them you walk around the path is predetermined by the ice doctors and other crevasses you simply jump over the small ones or you must have to cross a series of ladders 1 to 5 ladders tied together with rope for the big crevasses This year the longest crevasse to cross is 5 ladders long It was definitively a little scary to cross that particular one those 5 ladders being a little wobbly crooked and slanting to the right You have ropes on either side for balance and you are clipped in for safety but it still takes your breath away and you really really try to not look down into the crevasse Two of our sherpas crossed without crampons much harder as it is very slippery and for once I think I saw a bead of sweat on one of them Robin climbing up ladder Robin crossing ladder After arriving to camp 2 we i e our sherpas set up

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/19.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    drum He blesses the climbers our gear and our expedition and says long prayers for a safe return from the mountain After the prayers Food Tibetan bread apples candies chocolate popcorn is passed around Rice as well as tsampa roasted barley flour is thrown into the air as an offering to the gods and to each other well because it s a fun thing to do Alcohol is also offered to confuse evil spirits yes at 9am all the sherpas could be seen drinking beer regular beer and awful tasting rice beer while us more sensible and wimpy climbers were quite happy to be drinking Coke Zero Long strings of prayer flags are tied to a pole at the lhopsu sending their prayers in 5 directions Pujas are fairly popular and many other sherpas and climbers decide to attend free food and booze c mon and the whole ceremony ends with everybody attempting to do a bit of Nepalese dancing This afternoon we are getting our gear ready for our climb tomorrow Robyn and I will climb to camp 1 sleep at camp 1 and climb the next day to camp 2 drop off gear and make our way back

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/18.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    chores lol people generally walk around check out others people s camps or just drop by for a chat and exchange stories You can watch the different groups practicing on the nearby ice practicing crossing ladders or just taking a day off Most groups are planning on climbing to camp one in the next few days We also somewhat celebrated the Nepalese New Year on Thursday night We had dinner with the Everest ER docs Pemba put on Nepalese music and the cooks showed us a few of their Nepalese dance moves We even got up at some point and all did the party train in the dining tent but after three times around the table we all sat down all short of breath asking ourselves why did we do that for A cake baked by our cook an incredible feat to do at 17500 feet was presented to Dr Luanne who is leaving the Everest ER for the season after having helped with its setup The clinic is now being run by Jenn and Rachel two docs from the UK and Ashish a Nepalese doc who is also doing a study on the Khumbu cough Thomas sadly also left

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/17.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    could think all morning is that I was playing a giant game of Snake and Ladders We made it through about only one third of the way to Camp One before it was time to turn back We also practiced crossing the ladders that allow us to cross the different crevasses These ladders are installed by sherpas called Ice doctors as well as establishing a safe route through the icefall early in the season but are rechecked daily and all the ropes very early in the morning If you are lucky enough to have to go for that 5am pee outside of your tent you can see a stream of headlamps heading up in the icefalls The ladders can be single ladders easy across a small crevasse or can be as many as 6 to 9 ladders gasp tied together for the larger crevasses The best way to cross these ladders are Clip in your safety carabiner to either one of the lines on each side of the ladder Grab both lines with your hands lean forward and put the tension on the lines behind you Pray to your mama Move forward by taking slow steps each crampon carefully hitting each rung of the ladder at the right spot Concentrate and do NOT think about how far into the crevasse you will fall if you do a tiny misstep Thank your mama for having put that lucky charm in your backpack Repeat at the next ladders We then made our way back down and we passed many other large groups making their way up the icefall who had started at the same time as us Robyn and I are very grateful that it is only the two of us and our two sherpas it allows us to be a lot

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/16.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Everest Expedition 2011 - Daily Dispatches
    old ones getting water through the ice teams practicing their skills on the local ice Weather usually turns cloudy and colder in the afternoon when most people seem to retreat to their dining tents for shelter and warmth Monday was also a big day for us as we all had our first shower in two weeks We have a small tent with a huge bag of boiling water hanging above it We were all very happy to have clean toes and to see what they actually look like and clean hair Right now we are waiting for our Puja ceremony before we can climb through the icefall to camp 1 No Sherpa will climb before being blessed by the Lama and the Lama decides when each ceremony is help for each expedition After meeting with the Lama it was decided that Sunday was a good day for our ceremony Tuesday apparently not a good day for Pemba and Friday not a good day for Kame Robin and I were disappointed as we are eager to climb but at the same time we must listen to the mountain gods So on Tuesday Robin and I did some amazing ice climbing on the ice around camp to practice what we will have to do through the icefalls and the upper camp It was very tiring and made us short of breath quite easily as we are still acclimatizing at this altitude In the afternoon we crashed other people s Puja ceremony as anyone is welcome to watch but also means you have to accept their food offerings blessed food such as apples candies Tibetan bread and their alcohol if you are lucky its beer but usually it is rice beer which tastes like hot sour milk We of course didn t want

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/cybercast/everest_expedition_2011/15.php (2016-02-09)
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