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  • Camp II (21,000 ft.) Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    WMS climbers headed down to EBC Our camp was now very quiet The remaining cook and helpers began cleaning up the dinning tent and kitchen They also started packing up most of the sleeping tents since only Lakpa and I were still in Camp II Yesterday there were four climbers flown out from Camp II due to frostbite and four more were flown out this morning In addition there was

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/camp_2.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp III (23,500 ft.) to Camp II (21,000 ft.) Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    had gotten fairly severe Pasang was coming up from Camp II this morning and had not arrived at the expected time of 5 AM By 6 AM Pasang arrived in what was still very poor weather high winds We sat in our tents until about 9 AM when the sun finally hit our location on the Lhotse face but the wind was still blowing pretty hard We continued to discuss what our options were and also called base camp to find out how the Everest climbers were doing At this point information was very sketchy There were climbers in trouble but that was all we knew Weather for our climb was also a concern so we had our base cam p checking with other expeditions for weather updates The decision for our Lhotse climb finally came down to the next good weather window on May 24th until then there would be high winds at Camp II and above Lakpa Pasang and I packed up and headed back to Camp II We will rest on the 21st and then move back up to Camp III on the 22nd followed by a move to Lhotse Camp IV high camp on the 23rd

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/Camp_III_to_Camp_II.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp II (21,000 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    face As we started up the face we were moving a little quicker than planned and arrived at Camp III just before 10 AM We had not gotten any work about climbers on Everest but were concerned about the hundreds that we had seen the previous day moving up towards Everest Camp IV Later in the day we got work that one of the four WMS climbers had reached the summit of Everest and eight of the Indian climbers had also reached the summit They were all staying at Camp IV tonight and planned to go down to Camp II tomorrow Lakpa and I settled into two of the tents at Camp III Among the five tents that were destroyed by the avalanche a few days ago was the tent Lakpa and I had stayed in last the first time we stayed at Camp III on May 2nd Fortunately the avalanche happened one day before the WMS and Indian climbers moved back up to Camp II Had those tents been occupied there would have been many ore injuries or worse We had lunch and the early afternoon remained sunny with light wind Before dinner the wind picked up and was

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/camp2_camp3.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp II (21,000 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    gear and clothing for going up to Camp III tomorrow morning After lunch we got light snow showers and the wind picked up a bit Higher on Everest and Lhotse it was still clear Much like at EBC as the sun warms the lower glacier clouds form and you get afternoon snow showers My plan for tomorrow is to get up at 5 AM and leave Camp II by 6

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/camp2.php (2016-02-09)
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  • 17th May, 2012 -EBC to Camp II (21,000 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    stay covered to avoid sunburn We finally got to Camp II at 11 30 AM Six hours up to Camp II from EBC is not fast but better than I thought we would do considering how often I have been sick on this trip I expected to take about 7 hours Once at Camp II I settled into my tent I had some drinks and lunch at 1 PM We also got word that there was an accident at Camp III A large section of ice had broken off and avalanched onto on a number of tents Two Sherpa s were injured in one of the tents hit One had a broken arm and leg and the other had head injuries A helicopter was called in to evacuate both Sherpa s After lunch I was back to my tent to rest With the sun out I had to open up all my vents and I was still too warm Some low clouds finally moved into the Western Cwm around 3 PM and the temperature got much more comfortable in my tent While I got as much rest as possible this afternoon I also needed to decide if I will go up to Camp III in the morning or rest tomorrow at Camp II Lakpa and I talked before dinner about our schedule Because of the avalanche accident at Camp III the team that was going to start fixing the Lhotse route did not move up to Lhotse Camp IV They helped move the injured Sherpa s down the Lhotse face so they could be picked up by the helicopter Now they will move back up to Lhotse Cap IV tomorrow and fix the route on the 19th 20th I will stay at Camp II tomorrow and move up to Camp

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/EBC_to_Camp_II.php (2016-02-09)
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  • final arrangements at EBC before heading up on my summit attempt - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    from Gorak Shep after breakfast That is the nearest reliable internet service to EBC Today I will make my final arrangements at EBC before heading up on my summit attempt tomorrow morning shave shower and clean clothes I also need to pack up as much of my gear as possible so that it can be carried down to Lukla and flown to Kathmandu before I get back to EBC Hopefully I will only have two light duffels left to take down when I get back from my summit attempt With all my climbing gear and clothing it is not possible to get it all in one duffel bag That way if I need to fly out of EBC I may be able to take my remaining gear with me Peak Promotion will try to get me a reasonably priced helicopter flight from EBC to Lukla for my return Because my flight home is on the 26th I will only have a couple days after my return to EBC to get back to Kathmandu A helicopter flight could save two days The only problem with flights is that they require good weather and that can always be in doubt I will

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/day_20_ebc.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Day 19 at EBC (17,500 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    At least I got my email caught up Before I finished Pasang arrived at the Lodge He had been climbing with Chet on Lobuche East this morning Chet had gotten to about 19 500 ft when he decided to turn back They went back down to their high camp packed up and then back down to the main trail Chet had another Sherpa Pemba that continued on down with him to Pheriche today and then on back to Kathmandu in a couple more days Pasang was then heading back up to EBC when we met up at Gorak Shep He will be climbing Lhotse with me and Lakpa After Pasang had some lunch we headed back up the trail to EBC It took about 1 ½ hours to get back to EBC Fortunately when we got back to EBC I was able to get some lunch I am eating much better today After lunch I started laying out gear to pack up a second duffel bag to go back to Kathmandu while I am climbing I also sorted out a few things that I need to take up with me on the 17th The Indian climbers and the WMS climbers

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/day_19_ebc.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Day 17 at EBC (17,500 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    as much strength back as possible At least I have two more days I talked with my climbing Sherpa Lakpa when he got back to EBC and got caught up on the progress of our route on Lhotse He was up at our high camp yesterday and along with help from a Sherpa with Alpine Ascents got fixed line put in up to our high camp He also got a

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/day_17e_bc.php (2016-02-09)
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