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  • A rest day at EBC - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    and it looks like it could be a while before a good summit window opens They are working on the route up to the high camps and should have them established in the next two or three days I talked with my friend Chet and he is in Namche We are adjusting his schedule a bit so that WE WILL MEET UP IN Pheriche on May 7th Peak Promotion Base

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/rest_day_at_ebc.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp II (21,000 ft.) to EBC (17,500 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    zip up my tent and walk over to the dinning tent by 8 AM The further up the mountain you go this process actually becomes longer due to colder temperatures and more difficulty maintaining your breath After breakfast Lakpa and I head down from Camp II to EBC With the sun on us it is a beautiful morning in the western cum We were on our way before 9 AM and there were already a few wispy clouds on the higher peaks around us Just before Camp I we stopped so I could shed a layer of clothes We stopped again just below Camp I so I could get out a helmet mounted video camera The camera GoPro HD Hero was loaned to me by Ram a friend in Kathmandu I tried this camera when we were climbing the Lhotse Face to Camp II two days ago It was probably terribly slow so I decided to try filming a descent through the Icefall I turned on the camera put on the helmet and we headed dawn again We had no problems on the descent and arrived at EBC at noon Another large WMS trekking group was at our base camp

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/campII_ebc.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp III (23,500 ft.) to Camp II (21,000 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    cold during the night until we were getting up His sleeping pad did not insulate well enough from our snowy perch at Camp III Some of my problem was probably drinking too much tea when we got up to Camp III Not Decaf Lakpa and I had hot drinks and then headed down at 8 30 AM A new route had been put up yesterday to Camp II so we chose to try it instead of the route up yesterday We had only one repel on the last pitch on the face We could clip in on all of the other pitches and simply use our hands on the rope to walk down There was far less ice fall and no rock fall We were back at Camp II before lunch time Because I had so little sleep last night I spent most of the afternoon napping It was still cold even down here at Camp II and we had a few inches of snow before dinner At dinner most of the WMS climbers still had their down suits on Tomorrow morning I go back to EBC Then the waiting begins for a summit window good weather The route also

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/campIII_campII.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp II (21,000 ft.) to Camp III (23,500 ft.) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    carry or acclimatization climb After breakfast we were all ready to go at 9 AM Lakpa was very nice to let lead out at my pace I felt good but wanted a nice easy sustainable pace Not far out of Camp II we stopped to put on our crampons Most of the WMS guys caught up That was the last time we were with them until they got to Camp III Lakpa and I had a few rocks fly by on the lower pitches of the Lhotse Face Higher up it was just chunks of ice Lakpa and I got to Camp III at 2 30 PM It wasn t a fast trip but slow and steady Over the last few hundred yards I definitely felt the altitude about 23 500 ft Once in our Tent I felt good We had hot drinks and soup for lunch With the sun still out and a stove going we actually opened up the tent vents to keep from getting too warm We did still have our down suits on which is probably why we were so warm When we were coming up the Lhotse Face the down suit definitely kept me warm

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/campII_campIII.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Camp II (21,000 ft.)- Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    8 AM which is when the sun hits Camp II Even at this altitude the tent heats up quickly when the sun hits After breakfast I straightened things up in the tent and dried out my sleeping bag and some clothes Even with vents open quite a bit you get a fair amount of frost inside After lunch the weather was still pretty good so I went for a couple hour walk up towards the Lhotse Face There were many Sherpa s carrying loads up to Camp III Each day you can see more tents set up at Camp II for the increasing flow of climbers coming up Tomorrow I will go up and spend the night at Camp III a little over 23 000 ft After I got back from my hike I sorted out what I wanted to take up with me for the night at Camp III Then I laid down and rested an hour before dinner We had little wind this afternoon but lying down in my tent I can really hear the wind blowing up on the South Face of Everest When the sun dropped down below the horizon the temperature drops quickly It makes

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/campII.php (2016-02-09)
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  • EBC (17,500 ft.) to Camp II (21,000 ft.)- Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    heavy long underwear top and bottom this time I went down to the dinning tent at 4 30 AM and had porridge and tea with Lakpa my climbing Sherpa There was no hurry to get up to Camp II today so we finally left at 5 15 AM I struggled a bit at first getting my pace and breathing adjusted This always seems to be the case for me when climbing or hiking Wearing a buff over your mouth and nose takes some getting used to at 17 500 ft You want lots of air and the buff limits it a bit On the positive side the buff allows you to breathe warmer and moister air This is much easier on your throat and lungs which results in less coughing due to the cold dry air at these altitudes Eventually after 15 to 20 minutes I got settled into a rhythm and was moving consistently along Lakpa and I passed a few folks but mainly got passed by Sherpa s carrying loads up the mountain We caught up with the WMS climbers about 2 3 of the way up the Icefall We reached Camp I at 9 30 AM It had been very windy and cold in the upper portion of the Icefall Getting into sunshine was welcome for the cold fingers Just above Camp I we took our first real break It was still windy and there was little protection even in a low spot between a couple crevasses We got up to Camp II at 12 45 PM This was by no means my best time up to Camp II but it was much better than my first time up this year When we got to Camp II we got hot drinks and then I moved into my

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/ebc_campII.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Day 11 at EBC (17,500 ft) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    I planned to carry up to Camp II and will come by after lunch to see what he can carry for me I spent some time going through my lists to make sure I had everything laid out that I need up at Camp II Just before lunch David Breashears made it back to EBC He had been here earlier in April to set up his Glacier exhibit He had seen Terri at the Yak Yeti in Kathmandu and got to catch up a little with her I think it has been two years since Terri has seen David when we were up at his house near Boston Mingmar and I had been up there again this last summer It was good to see him again here at EBC He will be sharing our Peak Promotion base camp As I mentioned on the 26th I will be going up to Camp II in the morning I will not be able to update this blog until I get back to EBC Depending on my schedule will be back to EBC on May 4th or 5th If all goes well with acclimatization the next time I go up will be for our

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/day_11_ebc.php (2016-02-09)
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  • Day 10 at EBC (17,500 ft) - Lhotse Expedition - Daily Dispatches
    clothing and gear organized this morning After lunch I will empty out my tent so that I can re level it Since base camp is on a glacier things that were once level melt down and can get crooked The ice under my tent has melted along the sides so that the entry is now several inches lower and the head room was also lower inside With some luck I won t have to do this again before heading home After lunch I emptied out my tent and before I could get it moved Lakpa Mingmar and one of the cook helpers showed up with shovels and a pick I actually got to do little of the work They had the site re leveled and several drainage problems fixed in about 30 minutes All was done and the tent set back up in far less time than it would have taken me by myself They even helped me get my clothing and gear back in my tent After they left I spent the next hour or so putting everything back in its place It s almost better than a shower to have the tent cleaned up and organized Heading back

    Original URL path: http://www.peakpromotionnepal.com/lhotse/day_10_ebc.php (2016-02-09)
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