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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    contemporary than green shorts I actually took about 20 different shots of myself in different poses but this was my favorite Then I simply took the stool out of the road and took another shot making sure the tripod camera had not moved and the flash was in the exact same place as it was before And sense my auto focus was turned off I wouldn t have to worry about my camera screwing up the focus setting Now that we have the 2 essential shots we need lets open them up into Photoshop Have the image with the stool on the top layer and the image with no stool on the bottom Now erase the stool by using an eraser brush or a layer mask Ta da The stool is gone and it looks like you are floating Then after that I went up to Image Canvas Size and made the image square Then I selected my body using the Rectangle Marquee Tool right clicked and selected Free Transform I rotated my body so it was facing downward and also moved it upward a little higher from the road And that s it Here are some other floating levitating jumping zen pictures click to enlarge them Tweet Tagged as art dark flash floating how to jumping levitating night night time nikon d50 photography photoshop surreal tricks tutorial zen 12 Comments Recommendations Entries Wineglass Splash Studio Photography Tutorial My Photography Best of 2013 Photography Masterclass is Now Online High Speed Powder Photography Tutorial Glowing Lines Photoshop Tutorial Open Source DSLR Announced D800o April Fools Multiple Exposure Photography Tutorial My Photography Best of 2012 Hybrid Image Optical Illusion Photoshop Tutorial Snow Photography and Special Effects DSLR Tutorial DSLR Basics Stops and Metering A Room Filled with an Obnoxious Amount of Money

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/dark (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    to find the infrared focusing spot You CAN use the cameras autofocus it will just be slightly out of focus I ve taken many photos like this anyway Try a few test shots using the autofocus you may find it acceptable Also try using higher F numbers to increase the depth of field that might help a little bit Infrared Photography allows the use of longer shutter speeds You also CAN take infrared pictures without using a tripod but it is not recommended You will need to use high ISO numbers and low F numbers and those usually are not good for landscapes Just avoid all of that mess by using a tripod Your photographs will look a lot more professional Now if you haven t noticed by now the Hoya R72 filter is DARK This will substantially increase shutter speeds If you need shorter shutter speeds you can raise the ISO number and lower the F number I usually don t do much of that myself though If your photos are coming out too dark just bump up the EV until you are satisfied The shutter speeds will be quite long when using the IR filter depending on how sensitive your camera is to IR Setting The White Balance for Infrared Photography After taking some photographs with your filter you may have realized that your pictures are completely RED In order to fix this just meter and set the White Balance with your filter on Google How to set white balance with YOUR CAMERA MODEL for instructions if you don t know how to do this already HOWEVER a lot of cameras cannot set extreme infrared white balances in camera If you can t get your camera to work just shoot in RAW and set the WB later in post processing with a program called UFRAW This method should work with any camera UFRAW is way better than Adobe Camera RAW because it can set the white balance for infrared photography which A C R can t properly do Editing IR Photos in Photoshop The popular look for infrared photography have a blue sky instead of brown Image on the left is before the red blue channel swap image on the right is after it It s quiet easy to obtain this look In Photoshop go to Image Adjustments Channel Mixer Make sure the Output channel is selected on Red inside of the dropdown box Type in 0 for red and 100 for blue Next select the Blue output channel but selecting it in the drop down box Type in 100 for Red and 0 for Blue You ve just swapped all the red colors for all the blue ones Feel free to experiment with other channel swapping variations I ve seen pink and yellow foliage before If your foliage in your pictures look too red ish and you want them pure white like snow you can easily desaturate them using Image Adjustments Hue Saturation Select Red Alt 3

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/examples/page/2 (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    takes a long time to stitch it all together so just go get something healthy to eat while it s doing its thing When it is done you can open up the directory to where you saved it and then see its glory Stitching HDR Images optional If you want to stitch High Dynamic Range images I WOULD recommend making your HDR composites from 1 RAW file to save time but I haven t figured out a way to batch process a bunch of single RAW files so take 2 or more images And please use Manual Mode or Aperture Priority mode if you do this You need a program called Photomatix Open Photomatix up and select batch processing Choose the settings you want and be sure to tell it how many images are going to be used for each HDR composite and make sure 360 image is ticked on Batch process all of your photos and then stitch your new HDR images together just as you would normally in Hugin Perfecting The Stitch optional Yes you can take hand held 360x180 panoramas but when you do this there will be parallax errors especially if you are taking pictures of things that are close to the camera like inside an interior environment or if you were taking your pano right next to a tree or something The stitching software can t deal with this very well so your pano will be less than perfect To fix this you need to find the nodal point on your lens and then rotate your camera around that point while taking panoramas You will use a special tripod head to do that Finding The Nodal Point optional There is a pretty good tutorial on how to find the nodal point of your lens here it has pictures I recommend reading that to understand what a nodal point is Or you can do it my way It s a little different but it serves the same purpose To find the nodal point of your lens go inside and find a window somewhere Stick a piece of masking tape on the window Get a tripod and put the handle 90 degrees straight up in the air and then rest your lens on the tip of the handle Go wide angle and look through the viewfinder have the masking tape centered in the frame Keep in mind what is behind the masking tape on the outside of the window Rotate your camera to the left or right until the masking tape is at the very right or left of the frame You will then see that the object that was originally directly behind the masking tape is now a little bit towards the left or right of the masking tape Move your lens forward or backward just a little until you have found the sweet spot where this phenomena no longer happens when rotating your lens on the tripod handle The object that is behind the masking

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/howto/page/2 (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    to have your camera on MANUAL mode and have a set white balance This will make all your images have the same settings There are probably tons of how to guides on the internet and youtube explaining this Also it s a very good idea to use a tripod but isn t required Once you have taken your images you can use Photoshop to stitch your images File Automate Photomerge or Hugin I like using Hugin because it has maximum control on what you want your final pano to look like It is also better at stitching images that were not overlapped as much Photoshop CS4 sometimes has a hard time doing that If you are just getting started in panoramas and have Photoshop I would recommend using that for the first few you do because it is simple to use compared to Hugin Once you feel ready to step it up though by all means embrace Hugin Here is a video tutorial which includes a tutorial on how to take close up macro panoramas Tweet Tagged as 360 cameras cs4 hugin images larger megapixels pano panorama panoramic photographer resolution wide angle 1 Comment Recommendations Entries Wineglass Splash Studio Photography Tutorial My Photography Best of 2013 Photography Masterclass is Now Online High Speed Powder Photography Tutorial Glowing Lines Photoshop Tutorial Open Source DSLR Announced D800o April Fools Multiple Exposure Photography Tutorial My Photography Best of 2012 Hybrid Image Optical Illusion Photoshop Tutorial Snow Photography and Special Effects DSLR Tutorial DSLR Basics Stops and Metering A Room Filled with an Obnoxious Amount of Money My Photography Best of 2011 Trick Photography and Special Effects 2 0 Now Online High Speed Photography with Splashes Flashes and a Fish Tank Photography Tutorial Photoshop CS5 Surreal Portrait Photo Manipulation Advanced Tutorial Orbs Long Exposure

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/cameras (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    have more resolution and then finally click Stitch Your image will then be saved as a TIFF or a JPEG if you selected this option in the Stitcher tab It takes a long time to stitch it all together so just go get something healthy to eat while it s doing its thing When it is done you can open up the directory to where you saved it and then see its glory Stitching HDR Images optional If you want to stitch High Dynamic Range images I WOULD recommend making your HDR composites from 1 RAW file to save time but I haven t figured out a way to batch process a bunch of single RAW files so take 2 or more images And please use Manual Mode or Aperture Priority mode if you do this You need a program called Photomatix Open Photomatix up and select batch processing Choose the settings you want and be sure to tell it how many images are going to be used for each HDR composite and make sure 360 image is ticked on Batch process all of your photos and then stitch your new HDR images together just as you would normally in Hugin Perfecting The Stitch optional Yes you can take hand held 360x180 panoramas but when you do this there will be parallax errors especially if you are taking pictures of things that are close to the camera like inside an interior environment or if you were taking your pano right next to a tree or something The stitching software can t deal with this very well so your pano will be less than perfect To fix this you need to find the nodal point on your lens and then rotate your camera around that point while taking panoramas You will use a special tripod head to do that Finding The Nodal Point optional There is a pretty good tutorial on how to find the nodal point of your lens here it has pictures I recommend reading that to understand what a nodal point is Or you can do it my way It s a little different but it serves the same purpose To find the nodal point of your lens go inside and find a window somewhere Stick a piece of masking tape on the window Get a tripod and put the handle 90 degrees straight up in the air and then rest your lens on the tip of the handle Go wide angle and look through the viewfinder have the masking tape centered in the frame Keep in mind what is behind the masking tape on the outside of the window Rotate your camera to the left or right until the masking tape is at the very right or left of the frame You will then see that the object that was originally directly behind the masking tape is now a little bit towards the left or right of the masking tape Move your lens forward or backward just a little until you have found the sweet spot where this phenomena no longer happens when rotating your lens on the tripod handle The object that is behind the masking time should STAY directly behind the masking tape whether the masking tape in the middle left or very right of the frame Once you have found this point take a pen or something and mark a little dot on your lens to remind you where this point is You have found the nodal point for that specific lens and focal length You will need to know where the nodal point is to configure your purchased or DIY panorama tripod head Panoramic Tripod Heads optional If you have lots of money you can buy a pano head anywhere from 80 200 But if you are cheap like me you can make one yourself for a few bucks My panohead looks like this one The one I made is made out of wood and can only be used with my specific lens camera and focal length The tutorial I used can be found here How to build a panoramic tripod head This is probably the most easiest quickest design Just make sure that when you build it the Side arm is long enough for your camera to be pointed completely up enabling you to take proper Zenith shots The first time I made mine the side arm was too short and I couldn t take a proper zenith snot The nadir shots won t be ideal with this pano head but it is like that with any panoramic head You can t make the tripod invisible for pete s sake There are other panoramic heads where you can adjust the pano head for any lens camera combination but I couldn t find any useful DIY tutorials of these online it would probably be better just to buy one If you want to purchase a panoramic tripod head I recommend the Nodal Ninja It allows you to take full 360x180 panoramas Manipulating Panoramas in Flexify optional but recommended Flexify 2 is an EXCELLENT Photoshop plug in It is specifically designed for manipulating 360x180 panoramas In order to use Flexify properly you need to stitch your images using Hugin first Make sure you are stitching them in equirectangular mode not stereographic Once you ve got that done open your image in Photoshop and click on Filter Flamingpear Flexify assuming you already downloaded purchased the Flexify plug in and put it in your plug ins folder Click to see a screen shot of Flexify Next select the input to be Equirectangular and the output can be anything you want there are lots of options If you want it to look like one of those 360 planet panoramics select Stereographic or Hyperbolic Then set the Latitude to 180 or 180 And if you want to adjust the field of view mess around with the FOV slider Keep in mind that if you slide it TOO much

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/hugin (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    increase the depth of field that might help a little bit Infrared Photography allows the use of longer shutter speeds You also CAN take infrared pictures without using a tripod but it is not recommended You will need to use high ISO numbers and low F numbers and those usually are not good for landscapes Just avoid all of that mess by using a tripod Your photographs will look a lot more professional Now if you haven t noticed by now the Hoya R72 filter is DARK This will substantially increase shutter speeds If you need shorter shutter speeds you can raise the ISO number and lower the F number I usually don t do much of that myself though If your photos are coming out too dark just bump up the EV until you are satisfied The shutter speeds will be quite long when using the IR filter depending on how sensitive your camera is to IR Setting The White Balance for Infrared Photography After taking some photographs with your filter you may have realized that your pictures are completely RED In order to fix this just meter and set the White Balance with your filter on Google How to set white balance with YOUR CAMERA MODEL for instructions if you don t know how to do this already HOWEVER a lot of cameras cannot set extreme infrared white balances in camera If you can t get your camera to work just shoot in RAW and set the WB later in post processing with a program called UFRAW This method should work with any camera UFRAW is way better than Adobe Camera RAW because it can set the white balance for infrared photography which A C R can t properly do Editing IR Photos in Photoshop The popular look for infrared photography have a blue sky instead of brown Image on the left is before the red blue channel swap image on the right is after it It s quiet easy to obtain this look In Photoshop go to Image Adjustments Channel Mixer Make sure the Output channel is selected on Red inside of the dropdown box Type in 0 for red and 100 for blue Next select the Blue output channel but selecting it in the drop down box Type in 100 for Red and 0 for Blue You ve just swapped all the red colors for all the blue ones Feel free to experiment with other channel swapping variations I ve seen pink and yellow foliage before If your foliage in your pictures look too red ish and you want them pure white like snow you can easily desaturate them using Image Adjustments Hue Saturation Select Red Alt 3 and then slide the saturation slider all the way down to 100 I would also recommend darkening the levels a little bit The 2 examples above was not adjusted for that and it looks a bit faded IR Examples Chart Keep in mind that this was a cloudy

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/experimental/page/2 (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    Point A to Focus Point B while it is taking an exposure The exposure compensation only goes up or down to a maximum of five stops What if you wanted to set it over 5 Why limit everything using arbitrary numbers I like that it stops at 5 because if I want to quickly move it up or down as much as possible I know that I can just keep rotating the dial until it stops at 5 There should be an option in the menu to change the maximum number however You cannot easily select groups of images to be deleted simultaneously You cannot quickly create a playlist of certain images videos you want to play while in sideshow mode You cannot resize images to smaller sizes This feature was available in older models The repeating flash mode is limited to 1HZ to 50HZ It s very possible to program the camera to be 5HZ There is an option that allows you to trim movie clips from the beginning and another option to trim movie clips from the end however if you wanted to do both at the same time there is no option available You have to trim the beginning which makes a new copy of the file then trim the end of that copy which makes another copy In the end you have 3 copies You cannot create a movie file of an exposure being recorded in real time You cannot set the shutter speed to whatever you want when recording video You cannot set the ISO number to whatever you want when recording video You cannot set custom values for each flash burst in the Flash Burst mode You can t watch videos in slideshow mode The AGC Audio Gain Control is horrible People have been complaining all over the internet about their frustration of it not being able to switch the AGC to manual You can t take images in any size you want Cameras offer Small Medium and Large image sizes for JPEG and sometimes with RAW The image size should be able to be customized to any dimension you want with any filetype including RAW With my 36 megapixel D810A DSLR I want to have the ability to make the images Extra Small Each pixel on the sensor cannot have its own dedicated ISO number Depending on how advanced they made this feature this could potentially completely revolutionize HDR photography Mapping just a simple gradient down the sensor would be nice though Built in GPS Nope I really am wanting this Built in WiFi Nope I probably would never ever use this but still You can t link two or more DSLRs together for 3D capturing The painted labels near the buttons do not glow in the dark There is no RAW for video You cannot create animated GIFs A lot of the things listed above are already capable of being enabled in the camera however Nikon decided to just disable them for the hell of it This leaves all the photographers who want more control over there camera in the dark with no other option but to suffer There is only one solution at this point and that is The Frankencamera The Frankencamera will allow users to write their own programs for the camera and use it as they please however it is currently difficult to get one of these because it is still in development and being prepared for public use Plus it is extremely bulky The Nikon D300s competitor the Canon 7D fixes some of the problems but I don t own one so I can t tell you which problems it fixes and which ones it doesn t I m assuming that it only can fix a few Based on a video review I saw of it the only things better than the Nikon is that it can take longer video footage it s 18 megapixels compared to 12 and it can meter the y axis horizon ohhhh big deal People seem to make jokes about this post and say things like well this camera can t make me toast in the morning so therefore it is useless That is because the camera wasn t designed to make toast and it would need new hardware in order to do that and would be ridiculous to begin with Most of the items that I have listed above do not require any new hardware to be installed into the camera I am simply trying to point out the un met potential DSLR cameras have There are so many creative and very practical useful features that could be implemented into cameras that are not being taken advantage of Take a look at this theoretical open source DSLR that implements some of the features listed above and hopefully you will come to some conclusion on why I hate camera companies for not progressing their technology beyond the point of just adding more megapixels and a faster frame rate each year to their cameras If they would just make the camera open source the technology could progress so much faster They are ruining it for everyone Is there anything you think should be added to the list 11 16 2010 UPDATE Yes I researched the camera before buying it and believe it or not I felt that it was the best one on the market for me However that does not mean that I like it or am even the happy with it At most I am truly disappointed with the camera s available on the market today If you gave me the most high end top notch flagship camera from Nikon or Canon I still would not be impressed because of how impractical it is If the firmware was open source however then that would be completely different story and paying 3 grand for a camera WOULD be worth it I m surprised Nikon and Canon even give us the option to change

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/dslr/page/3 (2016-02-16)
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  • Photo Extremist: Creative Photography Tutorials, Photoshop Tutorials, Instructional Videos
    It takes a long time to stitch it all together so just go get something healthy to eat while it s doing its thing When it is done you can open up the directory to where you saved it and then see its glory Stitching HDR Images optional If you want to stitch High Dynamic Range images I WOULD recommend making your HDR composites from 1 RAW file to save time but I haven t figured out a way to batch process a bunch of single RAW files so take 2 or more images And please use Manual Mode or Aperture Priority mode if you do this You need a program called Photomatix Open Photomatix up and select batch processing Choose the settings you want and be sure to tell it how many images are going to be used for each HDR composite and make sure 360 image is ticked on Batch process all of your photos and then stitch your new HDR images together just as you would normally in Hugin Perfecting The Stitch optional Yes you can take hand held 360x180 panoramas but when you do this there will be parallax errors especially if you are taking pictures of things that are close to the camera like inside an interior environment or if you were taking your pano right next to a tree or something The stitching software can t deal with this very well so your pano will be less than perfect To fix this you need to find the nodal point on your lens and then rotate your camera around that point while taking panoramas You will use a special tripod head to do that Finding The Nodal Point optional There is a pretty good tutorial on how to find the nodal point of your lens here it has pictures I recommend reading that to understand what a nodal point is Or you can do it my way It s a little different but it serves the same purpose To find the nodal point of your lens go inside and find a window somewhere Stick a piece of masking tape on the window Get a tripod and put the handle 90 degrees straight up in the air and then rest your lens on the tip of the handle Go wide angle and look through the viewfinder have the masking tape centered in the frame Keep in mind what is behind the masking tape on the outside of the window Rotate your camera to the left or right until the masking tape is at the very right or left of the frame You will then see that the object that was originally directly behind the masking tape is now a little bit towards the left or right of the masking tape Move your lens forward or backward just a little until you have found the sweet spot where this phenomena no longer happens when rotating your lens on the tripod handle The object that is behind the

    Original URL path: http://photoextremist.com/tag/360x180 (2016-02-16)
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